16 December 2006

Big and Bizarre

After more than two months living in İstanbul, we finally got around to see that one thing which tourists usually go to see first -

The Grand Bazaar


I had no idea that the bazaar was mostly inside this amazing building - somehow I had expected it to be a series of little stalls outside like any other market. This place is huge, a maze of hallways and tunnels, some wide like this one and some just narrow little alleys.

We went with Stephanie (in green) and Shannon (in red), two of our colleagues, and two very different young American ladies. Stephanie is about to return home to the states for a holiday, and wanted to purchase gifts for family and friends. Shannon mostly wanted to look around, possibly buy a carpet, and practise her Turkish language with everyone she could.



I had no intention of buying anything, and I am not usually tempted much by the stuff I see in markets - especially tourist stuff. But this lot fair took my breath away - there was so much really beautiful stuff. Each shoplet was stuffed to the rafters with a mind-boggling variety of delightfully Turkish stuff ... and not a "made in China" sticker in sight!



This lot really did tempt me. There were so many displays of these charming ceramic bowls and plates in so many different sizes and styles. Each one apparently hand painted, bright and attractive, impossible to decide which one(s) ...

Maybe one day I'll go back and get some. When you live in İstanbul you can do that.



Shannon wanted jewellery, and we spent a long time looking at amber rings and necklaces. Once again, even I was tempted. There was an overwhelming variety of stones and pieces to suit every taste.

Today is Friday, our day off - and an important day at the mosques. As noon approached we saw more and more shop keepers closing up and preparing to go to prayer. Here and there in the tunnels of the bazaar there were taps and fountains, and men were busily washing their hands, faces and feet. Then we came across a particularly busy passageway, which was made even more congested as men came and placed their small carpets in the middle and got down to prayer.

We headed out into the brisk air of the outside part of the bazaar.

Here the goods for sale were more along the lines of jeans and t-shorts, shoes, hats ...


It was lunch time, so we settled at a little cafe in the sunshine. Lentil soup, Turkish style - not that gluey stuff I made when I tried to produce some in Oz years ago - is amazing.



Stephanie likes to add some red pepper flakes to hers. I just like to squezee in some lemon and dip my bread in.


The waiter boy brought our soup and çay on one of those little hanging trays we see everywhere. Even in the streets of Bakırköy we see people delivering these trays with çay to shopkeepers and their valuable customers up and down the street.

Most days at work this is what we have for lunch - haven't tired of it yet - red lentil soup, with a wedge of lemon, and a basket of the freshest possible bread. I like a glass of ayran (salty yoghurt drink) with mine, çay is nice too.

Is this Moses?

We came out of the bazaar through the gate near the mosque, and there was - apparently - Moses selling books and stuff.

Time to catch a bus back to little old Bakırköy - we are glad to call it home.


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