tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34873370427245282342024-03-05T21:41:11.566+02:00Turklish AdventureOur continuing ESL adventure - two years in China,
and now Istanbul, Turkey.
Why would anyone
want to teach primary school
when you can do this instead?Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.comBlogger99125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-41259240030839095382009-09-01T09:02:00.003+02:002009-09-01T09:09:46.216+02:00Moving on, and onThis blog came to an end when we moved to the UK - <a href="http://britishjob.blogspot.com"><span style="font-style: italic;">The British Job</span></a> and <a href="http://torquaytalkie.blogspot.com"><span style="font-style: italic;">Torquay Talkie</span></a> and <a href="http://porridgeinnorwich.blogspot.com"><span style="font-style: italic;">Porridge in Norwich</span></a> ...<br /><br />In Torquay we had our own website for our EnglishTorq homestay / language school.<br /><br />But then we moved on to Norwich, and on again to Saudi Arabia - <a href="http://howdisaudi.blogspot.com"><span style="font-style: italic;">Howdi Saudi</span></a> .<br /><br />Now (September 09) we have returned to Australia to do some further training at Edith Cowan University - <a href="http://notriyadh.blogspot.com"><span style="font-style: italic;">Not Riyadh</span></a>.<br /><br />Where next - don't know yet.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-27827462938410307582007-11-08T10:35:00.000+02:002007-11-08T10:37:42.937+02:00Our new WEBSITESo here we are in England, and we have a new website to advertise our new jobs.<br /><br />It's called <a href="http://www.englishtorq.co.uk">English Torq</a>.<br /><br />That's because we are living in TORQuay, in Devon, and you TALK English, and we are ENGLISH teachers.<br /><br />Go on over and have a look.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-49241609377657393062007-09-14T22:45:00.000+02:002007-09-14T22:48:26.118+02:00Not here any moreHey, we're not here any more, we're there.<br /><br />I mean, we are not <span style="font-style: italic;">there</span> (in Turkey) any more we are <span style="font-style: italic;">here</span> (in the UK).<br /><br />Look at my <a href="http://www.britishjob.blogspot.com/">new blog here</a>.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-55162709886081113172007-07-31T19:19:00.000+03:002007-08-01T06:57:19.364+03:00The longest seven hoursThe 31st of July. Time for Peter's interview at the British Consulate in Taksim.<br /><br />Travel to Taksim is best by dolmus (shared taxi), and usually this involves a few minutes of queuing as vehicles arrive, fill, and leave, until there is a space. We thought maybe it would be different early in the day, so we went down on Monday morning to have a look. This was different, at 7am there were ten or so dolmuses queuing, waiting for passengers. And there was hardly any traffic. Catching a dolmus early would mean a short trip, maybe half an hour, but catching one a few minutes later after the traffic started to build would mean a long trip, over an hour.<br /><br />So this morning we were up bright and early and we went there soon after seven - too soon. We were in Taksim in half an hour ... and the interview wouldn't be till nine.<br /><br />We wandered around the (fairly) quiet streets, walking slowly, enjoying the cool (though humid) air. By 8.45am we were tired of walking and we showed up at the consulate anyway.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5093420056126965330"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/ruth.wickham/Rq92jhFMRlI/AAAAAAAACuQ/X2NH9USzVoc/s400/Image004.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The British Consulate is not a very obvious place - no signs at all, just a crest on the wall to give the clue. But there is heavy security (after a bombing a few years ago) and we have been there a few times now so we know where it is. We went to the guardroom window, and were quite surprised when they said I could not enter, only Peter. So I sat on the stone wall outside and waited. He was finished and back out before 9.00, even before his interview appointment time ... but the rest of our day didn't follow this pattern.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5093418033197368882"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/ruth.wickham/Rq90txFMRjI/AAAAAAAACuA/wvbgmOCkIns/s400/Image011.jpg" /></a><br /><br />He had good news, and bad news. Yes, he was granted the visa, and would get it today, but he had to come back at 4pm to pick up his passport with the visa in it. (Good thing we didn't book our flights for today!)<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">What to do? An hour back to Bakirkoy, and then returning later - another hour in the dolmus - and then another hour in the dolmus home again. Or hang around Taksim for 7 hours?</span><br /><br />We decided to hang around, after all it seemed fairly cool. We wandered slowly up to one of the three Starbucks in the main street, and sat in big comfy chairs in the third floor lounge for about two hours. That was pleasant, but slow moving - its not like we could grab an (English) newspaper to read or something.<br /><br />Then we went out and wandered some more. We went for a ride down the hill on the little tram. Then we walked back up, and decided to look for a cinema showing English movies - most of the movies here are in English with Turkish sub-titles. We found a cinema, with several bad choices of movies, and chose to go in to watch one that had just started.<br /><br />It was called "<span style="font-style: italic;">28 weeks later</span>". If you ever get the chance to see it ... go to the dentist and have some teeth pulled instead, it will definitely be more worthwhile.<br /><br />We counted off the minutes and hours we had managed to waste already, and decided to go give the Consulate a try - who knows, maybe they will be running early.<br /><br />The man in the glassed-in air-conditioned guardroom repeated the four o'clock starting time. We noted there were already a few people sitting in a patch of shade on the ground under a tree near the Consulate, so we wandered off looking for a cool shady place to perch and wait for two more hours. The day had heated up considerably, but the Consulate is on a steep hill and there are places you can catch a cool breeze off the Golden Horn.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5093571672767481442"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/ruth.wickham/RrAAcxFMRmI/AAAAAAAACuk/LDRQkYZp8S0/s400/Image014.jpg" /></a><br /><br />At 3.30 we were back, and waiting in the shade across the road from the Consulate. We watched as various people came and asked at the window and then joined the growing group crowded into the shade under the tiny tree. A few noticed us, and came across to join us.<br /><br />By four o'clock there were more than 20 anxious people. The traffic had reached a crescendo, and the sun had developed quite a sting. Everyone started queing at the window, which made the guards nervous, so they erected a metal barrier over against the wall that was receiving full sun, and got everyone to queue behind that. Instructions were given in Turkish, which was a bit discouraging for English people wanting to get into the British Consulate.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5093418033197368898"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/ruth.wickham/Rq90txFMRkI/AAAAAAAACuI/CzYftw9qb6U/s400/Image017.jpg" /></a><br /><br />One older balding man in the queue (not Peter!) was holding his hands on his head trying to protect himself from the sun. He became distressed, so the nice man in the guard room gave him a glass of water to pour over his head - well, maybe it was for him to drink, but his head was so hot it was all he could think of to do. I nipped into a little supermarket I noticed just down the road and grabbed some cold cans of iced tea for my man - who was glad to be wearing his codger hat!<br /><br />At 4.30 it finally all happened. They took people through the gates five at a time, and a few minutes later Peter had his shiny new "Settlement Husband" visa.<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">We are going to England!!</span>Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-40457704541428640952007-07-29T09:38:00.000+03:002007-07-29T11:52:02.863+03:00Hot Summer EveningsThey said Istanbul has 'miserable' winters. Well, it hardly rained, it didn't snow, we didn't see any fog, there was barely any wind, and it didn't really get cold.<br /><br />But summer in Istanbul? Now that <span style="font-style: italic;">is</span> miserable!<br /><br />At the moment the middle east is in the grips of a heatwave - temperatures pushing the high forties day after day - and we are just on the edge of that. It's hot, and the place isn't geared for heat. Many places do not have air conditioning. And there is a water shortage and electricity shortage, so they turn off water or power to whole suburbs for up to a day at a time.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">End of Time</span><br /><br />Our contract ended precipitously somewhat sooner than we had originally intended, but we can't go anywhere until we get Peter's passport back from the British Consulate after our visa interview there on July 31st. We still had test writing to finish for Dilko, so that kept us inside and at the computer (by turns) for a while. We finished that, and then we packed our stuff, and weighed it, and re-packed ... and still there are days left.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">Going for Walks<br /></span><br />Walking is good - healthy, cheap.<br /><br />Walking in Istanbul can be a wee bit hazardous. The sidewalks are narrow, and even the walking streets are unbelievably crowded. It's like always pushing through a fair-ground crowd. You can't just walk in a straight line, you are always dodging and weaving, watching out for bikes, motorbikes, and sometimes even cars or trucks that have chosen the pedestrian way. People do not specifically walk on the right, or the left, they come in from the side and they meander, and many of them seem fairly unaware of the presence of others - wearing a scarf or a burka would be a bit like wearing blinkers.<br /><br />And you don't see many prams or pushers, these old Istanbul streets are incredibly rough with a variety of cobbles and brick paving, pot-holes, bumps and dips, drains, broken off metal pipes sticking inches out of the ground, rubbish in piles and scattered - there's definitely no room for power walking.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">The Promenade<br /><br /></span><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5092331221787887042"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/ruth.wickham/RquYRBFMRcI/AAAAAAAACsU/2Xsf9Ht_cxU/s400/Image036.jpg" /></a><br /><br />That's what the path along the sea-front was called in England, I remember. Great place for a walk. We went there quite a few times during the "winter" and were puzzled by the emptiness and desolation, the only other people were a few exercise enthusiasts.<br /><br />But now it's the summer holidays. The kids are at home and everyone is hot and bored.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5092330281190049138"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/ruth.wickham/RquXaRFMRXI/AAAAAAAACrs/ah_dO9Prf2Q/s400/Image021.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Its obviously the place to be. Someone even provides little tiny tables and stools under the trees.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5092330010607109474"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/ruth.wickham/RquXKhFMRWI/AAAAAAAACrk/HzLs-5yPvHQ/s400/Image020.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Great place to snuggle with your girlfriend, or do a spot of fishing. People catch tiny hamsi - like sardines - we have seen one guy catch seven at one time.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5092520904723547666"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqxEyBFMRhI/AAAAAAAACtk/9HXQZRShT9c/s400/Image028.jpg" /></a><br /><br />There's even enough space for a kid to kick a football.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5092523357149873698"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqxHAxFMRiI/AAAAAAAACto/O1veY6MA4hY/s400/Image030.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Then if you think you are really clever at kicking footballs, there is some kind of little competition here - I'm sorry, we haven't really worked out what the idea is.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5092328911095481618"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/ruth.wickham/RquWKhFMRRI/AAAAAAAACq8/E3ztSwyd_2g/s400/Image023.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Actually there are a few ways you can throw a few coins and have a go at something.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5092328301210125538"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/ruth.wickham/RquVnBFMROI/AAAAAAAACqk/IztZaYbG8oE/s400/Image006.jpg" /></a><br /><br />You can shoot a pellet to pop a balloon, or break a glass bottle into the sea. There is also a man with two or three cute white bunnies sitting on top of a wooden box, very tame. People come and play with them and stroke them, and then they buy a ticket to try and win one. What a racket!<br /><br />And what a great opportunity for all the little people to set up stalls and make a bit of extra money.<br /><br />You can feast on fairy floss,<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5092328064986924242"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/ruth.wickham/RquVZRFMRNI/AAAAAAAACqc/qofauHfhC9E/s288/Image002.jpg" /></a><br /><br />or sweet corn - steamed and/or barbecued.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5092328726411887874"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/ruth.wickham/RquV_xFMRQI/AAAAAAAACq0/yNan5P7k1nI/s288/Image019.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Then there are lots of varieties of seeds and nuts, and the ubiquitous simits (bread with a hole that is very popular here).<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5092329735729202514"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/ruth.wickham/RquW6hFMRVI/AAAAAAAACrc/VDgfzPvEcEU/s288/Image017.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Some chaps are cooking fish or kofte (varieties of meatballs) on a portable barbecue, and selling it in bread with tomatoes and peppers.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5092329538160706882"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/ruth.wickham/RquWvBFMRUI/AAAAAAAACrU/3LyD5AGylHE/s288/Image013.jpg" /></a><br /><br />You can buy various evil-looking things in jars,<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5092328507368555762"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/ruth.wickham/RquVzBFMRPI/AAAAAAAACqs/wIFHISsFrek/s288/Image014.jpg" /></a><br /><br />or even just a cooled bottle of water.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5092520513881523666"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqxEbRFMRdI/AAAAAAAACtU/I5Zw_NtfUro/s288/Image007.jpg" /></a><br /><br />These photos were taken about 6.30 pm while it was still bright and sunny. But we are often down there at 9pm - when it is just starting to get dark. By ten o'clock we have pushed our way back up the crowded streets to our soggy bed and humming fan, but we have no idea how long everyone else stays - maybe all night. Some of them are just lighting little fires and settling babies into prams at that time.<br /><br />In less than a week we will be in England. Cool, wet, green England.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-11841387855061725752007-07-23T07:24:00.000+03:002007-07-27T10:54:32.824+03:00Turkish Girls<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5090250357377612690"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqQzuxFMO5I/AAAAAAAACXU/KROlmk04SeU/s288/IMG_3554.JPG" /></a><br /><br />This Sunday was the big General Election in Turkey. For weeks before we had put up with political rallies, vans driving around with blaring election speeches and rousing patriotic songs. There were fireworks at night, and huge "vote for me" advertising posters replaced the football team banners.<br /><br />Everyone was wondering if the ruling AK party would get back in, because there had been some concern about this party being strongly pro-Islamist. The big deal in Turkey, for which we all love the man Atatürk, is that the government must remain secular, while the country is generally very religious. In practical terms, this means, for example, that women cannot wear religious headgear in government jobs.<br /><br />Well, the AK party did get in. But they have promised to maintain the status quo, secular government. Otherwise the military have promised yet another military coup - they will just step in and take over like they did before.<br /><br />So. What about the girls?<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5090251091817020434"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqQ0ZhFMPBI/AAAAAAAACYU/I-YShGcCorA/s288/3%20girls.JPG" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5090251182011333666"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqQ0exFMPCI/AAAAAAAACYc/x5ivEeyBz8c/s288/2%20girls.JPG" /></a><br /><br />Turkish girls <span style="font-style: italic;">are</span> beautiful. These are some of the ladies we have been privileged to teach English to.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5090251250730810418"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqQ0ixFMPDI/AAAAAAAACYk/fPW24MyfjeI/s288/IMG_1983.JPG" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5090251323745254466"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqQ0nBFMPEI/AAAAAAAACYs/aa4wR08Vo3o/s288/IMG_1997.JPG" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5090251547083553890"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqQ00BFMPGI/AAAAAAAACY8/KD4diIS4Pm4/s288/Sibel%20pre%20int%20class%201311%20Oct%2006%20large%20email.JPG" /></a><br /><br />Besides being beautiful, they are intelligent and strongly independent. In an English school like this we get a few - not many - of the covered girls.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5090251396759698514"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqQ0rRFMPFI/AAAAAAAACY0/tLfVuRx9cpE/s400/turk%20girls.jpg" /></a><br /><br />But we see a lot of them around the streets, like this friendly group of high school students.<br /><br />Of course there are also a few completely covered women in the black burkas, some showing only their eyes, some revealing their nose and even mouth. (I've never seen any completely covered with a veil as well like in some countries.)<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5090250688090094530"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqQ0CBFMO8I/AAAAAAAACXs/k5tpWjtiN-w/s400/ferry%20crowd%202.JPG" /></a><br /><br />What we've noticed about these young covered girls is that they are always slim and pretty, and they take great pride in choosing the colours and designs of their head scarves and full covering clothes.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5090250237118528386"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqQznxFMO4I/AAAAAAAACXM/1cHMUvL6atE/s400/IMG_2874.JPG" /></a><br /><br />As far as I can tell, the rules are that the hair must be fully covered as well as the neck, and the sleeves, and they must wear a coat or dress to cover the shape of their legs.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5090250585010879410"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqQz8BFMO7I/AAAAAAAACXk/jXEaKayUNzw/s400/IMG_3620.JPG" /></a><br /><br />That doesn't mean they can' go all out to choose clothes that are fashionable and colour coordinated.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5090251005917674498"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqQ0UhFMPAI/AAAAAAAACYM/SkHigJAcqvU/s400/IMG_3444.JPG" /></a><br /><br />The thing that really bothers me is that this is all well and good in cold weather, but this was a particularly hot day.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075938526423711954"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/ruth.wickham/RnFbMkE0gNI/AAAAAAAACFE/r1UjLT2Mo6w/s400/turkish%20girls.JPG" /></a><br /><br />The un-covered girl is comfortably dressed for the day, her covered friend is wearing a long-sleeved shirt, and t-shirt, and skirt and jeans, as well as her headscarf.<br /><br />I couldn't do it. I don't even much like wearing a scarf in winter.<br /><br />Most of these girls (covered and not) end up in arranged marriages - and are quite happy about it from what they tell us. And then the expectation is that they will stay at home, inside, doing housework and watching TV, covering appropriately when they go outside, or even stick their heads out over the balcony to hang the washing.<br /><br />Eventually they all turn into sacks of onions - with inner beauty.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5090256997397052562"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqQ5xRFMPJI/AAAAAAAACZc/XY3cezMhL9g/s288/IMG_2142.JPG" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5090256645209734258"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/ruth.wickham/RqQ5cxFMPHI/AAAAAAAACZM/yfb_-AlUIWA/s288/tire%20market%204.JPG" /></a>Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-205244373958247182007-07-17T15:40:00.000+03:002007-07-17T17:33:00.141+03:00Frustration and the Golden RuleWe have finished working with Dilko English here is Istanbul - a little earlier than we originally intended. The how and why is a story for another day.<br /><br />So here is another little story that just gives a <span style="font-style: italic;">hint</span> of what it's been like working here.<br /><br />It's July now, and most of the teachers have already left or gone on holiday for the summer. Charlotte has gone back to England for a month. Dilko didn't pay her as she left what they owed for her previous month of work because "that's not how it's done" - payment is <span style="font-style: italic;">always</span> on the 15th of the following month and she left at the end of the month. So she asked them to give her pay to her flatmate, Stephanie, on the 15th. That was ok, they said, they could do that.<br /><br />However Stephanie was flying back to the States for a holiday in the early hours of the 16th ... so Charlotte gave us her bank details, and Stephanie would hand us the money and we would put it in the bank so she could access it in England.<br /><br />Simple. What's so hard about that?<br /><br />Well, first of all, the 15th this month happened on a Sunday. Never been a problem before - we work on Sundays, harder than any other day. We've been paid on a Sunday before. They knew well in advance that pay day was going to fall on a Sunday.<br /><br />We turned up on Sunday for our pay, and were told "Yok", meaning 'there isn't any', and that we could not be paid until Monday. We graciously left (with a bit of a sigh...). Remarkably they managed to rustle up Stephanie's money, so she got paid before her early Monday morning flight. However Stephanie had no time to go to the bank - it's ok, we could bank hers at the same time as Charlotte's on Monday.<br /><br />On Monday we turned up, smiling brightly, and accepted our pay for the work we had done in June ... however they told us that they couldn't pay us Charlotte's money because she had asked to have it paid to Stephanie (who was now on her way to the US and of course they had been unable to pay Charlotte's money to Stephanie before Stephanie left because it was Sunday ...)<br /><br />Emails zoomed across the 'net as Charlotte sent new instructions, and we turned up again Tuesday morning, ready to get our hands on Charlotte's money. Oh, sorry! The lady who gives out the pay is not here, come back at 2pm.<br /><br />Returning at 2pm. Oh, sorry! She is still at lunch. Come back later.<br /><br />Returning at 3.40pm. Oh sorry! There is no money today. The owner of Dilko hasn't been to the bank yet. Try again tomorrow.<br /><br />Somehow we thought that as we are now in Europe and no longer in China, we wouldn't have these problems. The second biggest language company in Istanbul with branches all over the city should be able to come up with teachers' wages on the promised date and not need to make up stupid stories. I would have thought.<br /><br />Remember the Gold Rule? (The one in The Wizard of Id of course.)Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-41908410144129949072007-06-23T08:22:00.000+03:002007-06-23T11:09:13.289+03:00The Stiff Upper LipI've been practising keeping the stiff upper lip lately because ...<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">I'm British now, </span>apparently.<br /><br />Yesterday I went into the British Consulate here in Istanbul and picked up my brand spanking new British passport.<br /><br />Actually, I always was British. I was born of British parents (who later became Australian) and I was born in a British colony. When I was 21 and married to an Australian, I chose to become Australian ... but underneath I was still a "Pommie" of course.<br /><br />Now I'm <span style="font-style: italic;">one of those people</span> with Dual Nationality.<br /><br />The tricky part is going to be turning Peter into a Brit, because he really <span style="font-style: italic;">is</span> an Aussie.<br /><br />So ... it was our day off and we had just picked up my passport from the hallowed (and very secure) grounds of the British Consulate in Istanbul. The task of assessing visa applications has been outsourced to a Turkish travel agent over at Üsküdar on the Asian side of Istanbul.<br /><br />Well, how hard can that be?<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5079146231338664178"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnzAlkE0gPI/AAAAAAAACFg/5dKy0wsZ1tI/s288/galata.JPG" /></a><br /><br />The Consulate is in Taksim, the steep hilly centre of Istanbul - part-way down the hill. The last time we went there we just wandered on down the hill, discovered the Galata Tower on the way, and eventually found ourselves at the Galata Bridge across the Golden Horn. Intending to repeat the experience, we set off through the narrow, winding, traffic-snarled streets ... we figured that as long as we just kept going down we would eventually end up on the bridge again.<br /><br />We were quite hot and tired by the time we stepped out across the bridge ... and stared out over the water of the Golden Horn at the <span style="font-style: italic;">Galata Bridge</span>, the one where we wanted to be. We had got ourselves totally lost and ended up on the wrong bridge. Down there, near the Galata Bridge, we could see ferries lined up - one of them would be going across to Üsküdar, so we just had a bit more hiking to do.<br /><br />Really hot and tired, but now very relieved to be no longer lost, we stepped onto a cool, airy ferry. A waiter came and offered us a drink - the freshly-squeezed orange juice barely touched the sides and we were soon relaxing our way across the Bosphorus, enjoying some of the most beautiful sights of Istanbul.<br /><br />Stepping off the ferry in Asia, we showed the waiter the address we had on a piece of paper. He pointed off to the <span style="font-style: italic;">right</span>, and assured us a taxi would get us there for 5 lira. We climbed into a waiting taxi, and showed our paper to the driver ... who promptly took off to the <span style="font-style: italic;">left. </span>The ride in the taxi was considerably longer than one would expect for 5 lira. We went to all sorts of interesting places, along a nauseating high-speed tight switch-back road, up and down some hills ... Well, we were quite relieved when he "only" charged us 11 lira for our little tour, and dropped us in a very out-of-the-way place that looked like a housing development.<br /><br />After the customary security check, we joined a queue where they looked at our IDs and photographed us then pointed to the reception desk. The nice lady gave me a large, heavy plastic tile (at least six inches square) with the number 77. We sat among the waiting crowd for a moment, spoke briefly to a fellow-Aussie lady, and decided this wasn't good enough - we must surely need to fill in a form or something.<br /><br />To the consternation of all the non-English-speaking staff (considering this is an outpost of the British Consulate) we reappeared at the reception desk. Runners were sent off and people called for and a mere 10-15 minutes later they found someone who could maybe answer our questions. Finally someone handed us a 10-page form and a black pen, and pointed to a desk where we could work.<br /><br />During our wait by the reception desk we did notice a schedule of fees. My passport had 'only' cost us 300 lira, but apparently this visa was going to cost us 1400 lira! We surreptitiously reefed through our wallets, and although we had left home feeling "loaded" we came up a hundred lira short.<br /><br />Nevertheless we ploughed on through the form. Endless stupid repetitive questions - designed to check up on 'visa marriages' but meaningless for an old married couple like us. We were taking so long that the queue went way past our "77" tile, they were well into the 80s, and the whole centre was waiting to close soon - they close at 2pm - so they finally found a staff member to sit down with us and work through the form.<br /><br />At a quarter to two it was <span style="font-style: italic;">all done</span>! Nothing left to do except pay. Knowing we were 'a little' short we asked if they could accept debit card, or was there an ATM nearby. No, and no.<br /><br />Back out on the deserted hot streets with our sheaf of papers to return with next week, we had to work out how to get back down to the ferry. Not a taxi in sight, nothing but houses in three directions, and then a fenced, empty parking lot, and over there past those houses what <span style="font-style: italic;">could</span> be a bus station. We squeezed through a gap in the fence into the parking lot, and from there gained access to the bus station. The buses here were all empty, but down the far end we could see a crowd of people.<br /><br />"Feribot?" we asked, and were directed to the already-full but still loading dilapidated articulated bus. We waved our akbils, but apparently it was a free bus ... no wonder it was so full.<br /><br />Where was the bus when we went in the taxi?? It only took a few minutes to get down the hill to the ferry - and no switch-back or scenic tour - arriving from the direction the ferry-man had originally indicated.<br /><br />So, now we are back into the weekend - wall-to-wall classes for the next four days for both of us.<br /><br />And then ... more fun. They have promised us that next time it should only take about ten minutes for us to pay the money ... and then return again a week later to pick up Peter's passport with the visa in it.<br /><br />England here we come! You'd better be ready for us.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-60013097175701272982007-06-14T19:59:00.000+03:002007-06-18T11:20:59.481+03:00Büyük Ada - Big Island<span style="font-size:130%;">A trip to the Turkish Islands<br /><br /></span>We live on the coast of the Sea of Marmara, so it's just a ferry trip across to the nearby Turkish Islands - a popular destination among Istanbul-ites this time of year.<br /><br />Everyone told us it's beautiful out in the island - but then we have had years of <a href="http://merlife.blogspot.com/">island life</a> on a beautiful tropical island ... so we are not easily impressed.<br /><br />We got up early-ish, hiked down to the sea-bus (14 minutes) and went across to Kadıköy, on the Asian side, ready to catch a ferry to the islands.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075937925128290418"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFapkE0gHI/AAAAAAAACEU/Ylv4FY2jKgY/s400/kadikoy%20ballon.JPG" /></a><br /><br />At Kadıköy there is this strange structure. In winter it was just an open frame, but now they have the balloon in place and apparently you can take a ride in that blue thing at the bottom. We have seen it rising straight up, and then they pull it back down again after a few minutes. Its obviously not a regular balloon - we saw a workman open a little round door in the bottom of it, and then he climbed up the side of it and did some work on the top.<br /><br />We had quite a wait in the hot sun and in a pushy crowd before the island ferry showed up - already fully <span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">over</span>-loaded with people who had boarded at the previous stop on the other side of the Bosphorus - at Kabataş, on our side but near the city centre.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075935575781179282"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFYg0E0f5I/AAAAAAAACCk/tPugiU-072I/s400/crowded%20ferry.JPG" /></a><br /><br />As we struggled our way aboard, clambering over luggage and bikes and teenagers sitting on all the steps and leaning against walls, we were quite surprised to spot a couple of wooden seats near the window in the inside cabin.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075937929423257730"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFap0E0gII/AAAAAAAACEc/QRg0FebV3IA/s288/misty%20sea.JPG" /></a><br /><br />It was early in the day and the sea was still misty, but the sun beat through the window where we were sitting and we were soon regretting our choice of seat (not that we actually had any choices really).<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075934798392098626"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFXzkE0f0I/AAAAAAAACB8/pfQ3gDTRg7U/s288/beach.JPG" /></a><br /><br />We stopped at the first small island, and several hundred (mostly teenagers) of the couple of thousand people on board disembarked. Much relieved, we gave up our hard-won wooden seats and moved around and found some soft seats available in the cooler open section of the ferry.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075936185666535378"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFZEUE0f9I/AAAAAAAACDE/yywCrqIGznI/s288/ferry.JPG" /></a><br /><br />The ferry stopped at two more islands, and each time hundreds of people disembarked. Finally we reached the big one: Büyük Ada, "Big Island".<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075934798392098610"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFXzkE0fzI/AAAAAAAACB0/HtSu1sIIXEU/s400/b%20ada%20dock.JPG" /></a><br /><br />There would have been well in excess of 2000 people on the boat, so there were still several hundred waiting to get off at the big island.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075934794097131298"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFXzUE0fyI/AAAAAAAACBs/yq1zZngSHLA/s400/b%20ad%20mey%20dan.JPG" /></a><br /><br />But remarkably within a very few minutes they had all disappeared along the island streets.<br /><br />These islands have almost no petrol-driven vehicles, only a few service vehicles belonging to the council. Everyone else travels on foot, by bicycle (there are lots available for hire), or by horse and cart.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075934798392098658"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFXzkE0f2I/AAAAAAAACCM/O-8NIsAKCoM/s400/buggy%20ride.jpg" /></a><br /><br />We paid 40 YTL for a "big" tour, right around the whole island. There were dozens of horse-drawn buggies, and bikes. But we seemed to have snagged the slowest pair of ponies. In fact our little dappled pony kept trying to canter, while the brown one trotted. And we were endlessly overtaken by other carts carrying up to six people at a time.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075936786961956882"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFZnUE0gBI/AAAAAAAACDk/ihuRrwKMD8c/s400/hanging%20on.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The big island is very hilly and steep, and we saw quite a few cyclists grabbing a bit of help. Of course it was very difficult for our two little ponies coming back down the hill, the driver had to keep applying the brake and slowing them down.<br /><br />At the top of the hill was a wooded area, and we saw lots of family groups and young people picnicking among the trees. It all looked very dry, though.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075937933718225058"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFaqEE0gKI/AAAAAAAACEs/Iy40X6mecys/s400/picnicers.jpg" /></a><br /><br />At the top of the hill a breeze was blowing, and there were great views.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075936786961956898"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFZnUE0gCI/AAAAAAAACDs/me2vRxO-WyE/s400/hilltop%20views.jpg" /></a><br /><br />We saw a lot of different houses - most of them large and stately, others more homely and belonging to the permanent islanders, not just rich holiday makers. Instead of a garage, many of them had a buggy parked and a horse or two grazing out the back.<br /><br />Then we left the main village, and the road became quite narrow and rough. The back of the island was bushy and quite inhospitable really.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075936786961956930"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFZnUE0gEI/AAAAAAAACD8/AqNYzTKg5oo/s400/island%20backroads.JPG" /></a><br /><br />Finally we returned to the yard where the horses and buggies were gathered waiting for their next turn.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075935571486211954"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFYgkE0f3I/AAAAAAAACCU/SsZg5cuBQE0/s400/cart%20station.JPG" /></a><br /><br />There were several dozen carts, with their drivers taking a nap, watering their horses, or having a meal and a chat while they waited for the next boat-load of eager tourists. The tourists, though, were almost all Turkish, we only heard one family of people speaking English.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075935575781179266"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFYg0E0f4I/AAAAAAAACCc/qG3Q_xGyxqI/s400/cart%20station%202.JPG" /></a><br /><br />So we wandered around the village a little, stopped and had some çay at a little outside cafe. People here also support Istanbul football teams - well, FenerBahçe, of course.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075936185666535426"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFZEUE0gAI/AAAAAAAACDc/Aw4xLUGeYbw/s400/football%20supporters.JPG" /></a><br /><br />There were, of course, lots of cafes and ice cream shops. Turkish ice cream is a little different, sort of chewy.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075936786961956914"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFZnUE0gDI/AAAAAAAACD0/1lsG6CgwSKw/s288/ice%20cream%20shop.JPG" /></a><br /><br />So then it was time to join the madding crowd, and get back on the ferry to Istanbul.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075934798392098642"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFXzkE0f1I/AAAAAAAACCE/ALkKW4kIf2g/s400/boarding%20crowd.JPG" /></a><br /><br />We got to the dock a little early, wandered slowly past the people waiting on benches, and went to stare through the gate to see if the boat was coming. Turning, we were surprised to discover that our actions had unwittingly started something of a stampede - the whole crowd had leapt up and were crowded in behind us, and we were at the front of the pack!<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075935575781179314"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFYg0E0f7I/AAAAAAAACC0/wuDI_g-AJOs/s400/doorway.JPG" /></a><br /><br />We had no trouble finding a spot on the soft seats right next to the open door, and we had a delightful trip home.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5075936181371568066"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RnFZEEE0f8I/AAAAAAAACC8/jTFcCfn0gdI/s400/feeding%20gulls.JPG" /></a><br /><br />These seagulls flew alongside the ferry, keeping pace with us. Then we noticed that people on the (open) top deck were throwing food to them, and they were trying to catch it in flight. Actually, not many of them were successful.<br /><br />It was a lovely day out, though we don't have much of a hankering to return. There are hardly any beaches - mostly at the first island, and a few patches on the others - and the beaches have pebbles. I guess we have been spoilt by our Australian beaches.<br /><br />If you are thinking of going out there ... unless you want the whole cultural experience of an hour or more on a steamy, over-loaded ferry to be part of your adventure, it's probably worth getting up to Kabataş to catch one of the high-speed ferries (35-45 minutes). They are enclosed (air-conditioned), so you won't get the wind in your hair ...<br /><br />Well, whatever blows your hair back.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"></span>Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-2325976646756792532007-06-10T19:13:00.000+03:002007-06-10T19:37:38.433+03:00Bomb in BakirkoyOur first bomb.<br /><br />"I heard a loud bang."<br /><br />If the TV men had turned and asked me about it, that's all I could say.<br /><br />Usually I am teaching on a Sunday afternoon. But my class had their final exam yesterday, so no class today. So I was sitting at home, and I did think about going down to the shopping centre for a bit of exercise. But CSI was on TV and I was feeling lazy after four hours of teaching all morning.<br /><br />And then, at 3.30, I heard the bang. I went out onto the balcony, expecting to see smoke ... or something. But no one even reacted. Everyone at Dilko was just sitting there chatting and drinking tea.<br /><br />About an hour later we went for a walk down the street to see how things were. A small news item on the internet told us that a bomb went off right in the centre of Bakırköy.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5074469132212403890"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmwiykE0frI/AAAAAAAACAs/l9WZmqJCnFQ/s400/Image005.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5074469136507371202"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/Rmwiy0E0fsI/AAAAAAAACA0/n8meifpA-2o/s400/Image006.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5074469136507371218"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/Rmwiy0E0ftI/AAAAAAAACA8/cVQgDCIO0MA/s400/Image007.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5074469136507371234"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/Rmwiy0E0fuI/AAAAAAAACBE/WyY3qyUT4GU/s400/Image008.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5074469136507371250"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/Rmwiy0E0fvI/AAAAAAAACBM/LTUihiRbbBk/s400/Image010.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br />Lots of police - on foot, on motorbikes, various uniforms, carrying big guns. Several ambulances. Lots of TV cameras, and lots of interested onlookers (like us). Crime scene tape blocking off a section of the walking street.<br /><br />We couldn't see anything burnt or blackened, but it was difficult to see anything with the big crowd and the police watching everyone so carefully.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Here is what the news reported:</span><br /><br /><p style="font-style: italic;">ISTANBUL (Reuters) - A bomb blast outside a store in Istanbul wounded 14 people on Sunday, Turkish police said, amid increased worries about Kurdish separatist violence. </p><p style="font-style: italic;">The state Anatolian news agency said the blast appeared to have been caused by a percussion bomb, often used by Kurdish militants and other radical groups operating in Turkey. </p><p style="font-style: italic;">Authorities have warned of possible PKK attacks on civilian and security targets in cities and towns, especially in the run-up to national elections on July 22. </p><p style="font-style: italic;">"It is still not certain what kind of bomb it was," Istanbul police chief Celalettin Cerrah told reporters at the scene of the explosion. </p><p style="font-style: italic;">Percussion bombs typically make a loud noise but rarely cause serious damage. </p><p style="font-style: italic;">"The explosion was very powerful. We were really shaken," said Muttalip Erdogan, who sells doner kebabs. </p><p style="font-style: italic;">The blast, which shattered the windows of many shops and offices, occurred in the Bakirkoy district of Turkey's largest city, near the airport, where Kurdish militants have carried out similar attacks in the past. </p><p style="font-style: italic;">Tensions are running especially high amid increasing clashes between Turkish troops and guerrillas of the banned Kurdistan Workers' Party (PKK) in mainly Kurdish southeast Turkey. </p><p style="font-style: italic;">The clashes have fuelled talk of a possible major Turkish army incursion into northern Iraq to attack PKK bases there. </p><p style="font-style: italic;">In May, eight people were killed when a suicide bomber struck a shopping mall in the capital Ankara. Authorities blamed that attack on the PKK, though the group denied involvement.</p><span style="font-style: italic;">Last week, seven paramilitary policemen were killed when PKK rebels attacked their base in the eastern province of Tunceli. </span><p style="font-style: italic;">On Saturday, three soldiers were killed when rebels remotely detonated a landmine near the Iraqi border. </p><p style="font-style: italic;">Each incident has added to pressure on the government, which faces a strong nationalist challenge in the election, to get tougher with the PKK. </p><p style="font-style: italic;">Ankara blames the PKK for the deaths of more than 30,000 people since it launched its armed campaign for an ethnic homeland in southeast Turkey in 1984.<br /></p><br /><p style="font-style: italic;"><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5074475201001193234"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmwoT0E0fxI/AAAAAAAACBg/0bYkGC7AfbM/s400/genImage.jpg" /></a><br /></p><span id="ImageText"><span style="font-style: italic;">Forensic officers investigate the scene of an explosion in Istanbul June 10, 2007. The blast occurred in the Bakirkoy district of Turkey's largest city, the state Anatolian news agency said.</span> </span>Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-27385812516942495862007-06-10T08:27:00.000+03:002007-06-10T19:38:50.182+03:00Picnic TimeSchool outings and picnics ... counting children on and off buses, permission forms, kids injuring themselves on playground equipment, the whole thing ... I remember it well.<br /><br />My weekday morning class, which I've had since elementary, are about to take their final intermediate exam, so we were having a picnic.<br /><br />I share the class with Turcan, a Turkish-American guy, and we make a good team.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5073358728547565202"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/Rmgw4kE0fpI/AAAAAAAACAU/4b41zIQ1Seo/s288/Turcan.JPG" /></a><br /><br />The class has progressed really well - their English is quite good, and they are responsible and reliable. So, our students organised transport and booked a restaurant and we went down to Florya.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5073358728547565186"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/Rmgw4kE0foI/AAAAAAAACAM/Zanz6J51vV0/s400/tea%20group.JPG" /></a><br /><br />Florya is by the Sea (of Marmara), and it was a beautiful day - cool and really pleasant.<br /><br />We sat around several tables and shared some çay (Turkish tea).<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5073358080007503442"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmgwS0E0flI/AAAAAAAAB_0/jdPUGz3mQIk/s400/class%20group%20tea.JPG" /></a><br /><br />Here is Turcan with our two young men in the class - Yiğit, and Cenk - as well as our lovely lady, Şadan.<br /><br />And then there are these three delightful young ladies: Zübeyde, Seda, and Merve.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5073358075712536114"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmgwSkE0fjI/AAAAAAAAB_k/xB7UMd8p2E8/s400/3%20girls.JPG" /></a><br /><br />And two more gorgeous girls: Çiğdem and Naime.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5073358075712536098"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmgwSkE0fiI/AAAAAAAAB_c/E57A9O4LQzg/s288/2%20girls.JPG" /></a><br /><br />And last, but not least, Gözde and her new boyfriend who came along for the day.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5073358080007503458"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmgwS0E0fmI/AAAAAAAAB_8/GmqftKcDDwA/s288/gozde%20and%20boyfr.JPG" /></a><br /><br />So, after our çay we all went for a little walk along the seafront. And we came upon an amusement park - usually open and teaming with kids on weekends. Today, quiet but not closed. So our two 'boys' had a bit of a race in the go-karts.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5073358080007503426"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmgwS0E0fkI/AAAAAAAAB_s/0d8yLihOBts/s288/cenk%20race.JPG" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5073358728547565218"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/Rmgw4kE0fqI/AAAAAAAACAc/mg_JARx9pbQ/s288/yigit%20race.JPG" /></a><br /><br />Cenk (yellow helmet) won ... but the general consensus was that he had a better vehicle and it didn't seem to be a totally fair race.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5073358724252597874"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/Rmgw4UE0fnI/AAAAAAAACAE/Xcg3RmGAE98/s400/group%20pic.JPG" /></a><br /><br />Yep, they are a really nice bunch of people. Spending time with and getting to know people like these is what makes ESL teaching worthwhile and fun.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-72188106862995590362007-06-02T12:27:00.000+03:002007-06-10T14:50:56.305+03:00Keen SupportersThe Turks love their football.<br /><br />We were coming home from the cinema the other night and there was a crowd of FenerBahce fans celebrating a(nother) win by congregating in the middle of the (one way) main street. The traffic was banked up for miles, we thought there must have been an accident or something as we jay-walked our way between the cars ... and when we got to the head of the line, all that was there was this bunch of excitable people standing in the street. The first car in line, a tiny red thing, was getting increasingly impatient, honking his horn and revving his engine so the air was full of a dreadful burning smell. Inch by inch he began to edge his way into the crowd. They surrounded him and rocked his car. But he kept on, and eventually broke through and roared his way angrily along the empty street in front of him.<br /><br />Everywhere there are flags and banners.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071389794616842738"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmEyJhmtmfI/AAAAAAAAB-k/Q6R0F6fSB94/s400/fb%20flag%202.jpg" /></a><br /><br />We are often amazed at the size of them. But then yesterday we went to the Grand Bazaar and saw this one.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071389790321875426"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmEyJRmtmeI/AAAAAAAAB-c/6Jrwlf2EaTQ/s400/fb%20banner.jpg" /></a><br /><br />That's only part of it, it continues around the corner and the next.<br /><br />The Turks are pretty fanatical about their national flag too. When there was talk recently about political problems the common red flags suddenly got a lot bigger and bolder. This is the one in our street.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071389790321875410"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmEyJRmtmdI/AAAAAAAAB-U/2aveKJyN2Ks/s400/street%20flag.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Mind you, it is a nice flag. We hang one in our balcony where it faces out to Dilko (work).<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071389790321875394"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmEyJRmtmcI/AAAAAAAAB-M/BRXU4dESla8/s400/balcony%20flag.JPG" /></a><br /><br />The sun shines through and gives the room a nice glow too.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-29300367756023070472007-06-02T07:32:00.000+03:002007-06-10T20:11:49.420+03:00More fun with studentsPeter's class planned a day out together, a chance to show us the sights of their city.<br /><br />On the day only three young men were able to come, but another joined us later in the day after finishing work.<br /><br />We caught the bus to old Istanbul, where most of the museums are as well as the Grand Bazaar.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071316513884838114"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmDvgBmtmOI/AAAAAAAAB7g/dHIKus27mow/s400/aya%20sofya.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Aya Sofya, or Hagia Sophia, is a must-see that we hadn't seen yet.<br /><br />From the outside it's a huge, imposing building. Inside it's cluttered with repair and renovation work.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071317162424899906"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmDwFxmtmUI/AAAAAAAAB8Q/sH9dyXTbfug/s400/in%20aya%20sofya.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Dimly lit, and hard to photograph. It started off as a Christian cathedral, and then was taken over as a Muslim mosque, before it ended up as a musem. So it is a strange mixture - Christian symbolism overhung with huge Arabic plaques.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">The Pudding Shop<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071318128792541602"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmDw-BmtmaI/AAAAAAAAB9A/jvjpElCyJcw/s288/pudding%20shop.jpg" /></a><br /><br /></span>I liked the sound of it. The boys wanted to have lunch there. According the the decor it used to be the place for foreigners to meet, back in the 70s and 80s.<br /><span style="font-size:130%;"></span><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071318128792541586"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmDw-BmtmZI/AAAAAAAAB84/2qYzvF-Ihm4/s400/pudding%20notices.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The notice board was an important feature in the old days. Apparently this was where you came to hitch a ride across the continent or buy or sell an old combi van. It was mildly interesting. The food was forgettable, and over-priced. (Not much actual pudding.)<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">The Underground Cistern<br /><br /></span>We had heard that this was a place worth seeing too.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071316518179805474"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmDvgRmtmSI/AAAAAAAAB8A/0qNqFqVtVtQ/s400/cistern.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Dim and eerie, very difficult to photograph. They had appropriate weird music playing as we made our way along the boardwalks over the shallow water. There was constant water dripping, and in places where this was too soaking they had suspended plastic sheets for protection. When we first walked out over the water we noticed tiny fish swimming around. As we got towards the back of the huge underground cistern we saw bigger and bigger fish. The ones near the back corners were monstrous - not just more than double pan-sized, but so <span style="font-style: italic;">fat</span> it was amazing they could swim at all. (I'm sure the bus-load of Asian tourists that arrived were eyeing them hungrily.)<br /><br />In the back corner are the two "Medusa Heads". There are all sorts of stories about how and why these got here. Of course we had to go and take a peek at them.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071317166719867218"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmDwGBmtmVI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/z8NcifKDxFw/s288/medusa%201.jpg" /></a><br /><br />One is on its side facing the back wall - with a supporting pillar resting on it.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071317166719867234"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmDwGBmtmWI/AAAAAAAAB8g/ygQd7Q1h_OQ/s288/medusa%202.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The other is upside down.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">Mystery Tour<br /><br /></span>Then the boys decided we would go to another place by bus. We all followed the leader and hopped onto a bus. They were laughing and chatting and relating to the other passengers ... when all of asudden they realised we were on the wrong bus - they really didn't have a clue where we would end up. Various other passengers gave their opinions about what we should do ... we just decided it was an "adventure" as the bus ran on at break-neck speed up and down step hills, tossing passengers hither and thither as it twisted and turned through the sorts of narrow streets I would have thought were "no bus" zones. The other passengers didn't seem to mind, I guess they travel there every day - a couple of them were fast asleep, coming awake at the appropriate moment just before their stop.<br /><br />Eventually we got off at a spot next to the Golden Horn (the waterway that is like an off-shoot to the Bosphorus). We were on the wrong side of the water, and a long way from the nearest bridge.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071316513884838146"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmDvgBmtmQI/AAAAAAAAB7w/N_FrDdwAHEk/s400/boat%20negot.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The boys went down to the waterside and negotiated for a ride with some fishermen, and for a mere lira they transported the six of us to the other side.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071316513884838130"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmDvgBmtmPI/AAAAAAAAB7o/_AZxF5OFqbc/s288/boat%20fun.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The boys thought it was a scream. We felt our adventure was really beginning to get interesting.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071316518179805458"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmDvgRmtmRI/AAAAAAAAB74/Vo6VFVV0X0o/s400/serious%20boating.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The boatman took it all very seriously.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">Pierre Loti<br /><br /></span>Then we climbed aboard a cable car to get to the top of the hill and visit this popular spot.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071317166719867250"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmDwGBmtmXI/AAAAAAAAB8o/W5XQaMCfsuk/s400/pl%20cafe%20view.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The hillside is crammed full of tiered graves, but at the top there is a great cafe, and brilliant views.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071318128792541570"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmDw-BmtmYI/AAAAAAAAB8w/u5vdc8xJLgo/s400/plview%202.jpg" /></a><br /><br />It was a long day, and we all had a lot of fun.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5071317162424899890"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RmDwFxmtmTI/AAAAAAAAB8I/C75vpZCWLKA/s400/group.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Two of the boys went off while the rest of us relaxed in the cafe and borrowed a dad's car and drove us all back to Bakırköy, not wanting to risk another wrong bus adventure.<br /><span style="font-size:130%;"></span>Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-61637746850782800672007-05-31T07:55:00.000+03:002007-06-10T14:54:57.798+03:00Fun with StudentsYou could say that living in Turkey isn't all that different from Australia. Well, no, that's not really true.<br /><br />We are still teaching - we <span style="font-style: italic;">were</span> teaching in Australia. No, that's different too.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5070584531198515410"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/Rl5VxBmtmNI/AAAAAAAAByo/erZoneG8fXA/s400/morning%20class%202.jpg" /></a><br /><br />One of the really nice things about this job is the students that we teach.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5070584191896098978"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/Rl5VdRmtmKI/AAAAAAAAByQ/zkhRNkh_bBE/s288/gozde%20merve.jpg" /></a><br /><br />That's Gözde and Merve, a couple of the girls in my morning weekday class. As you can see, they are very studious - I <span style="font-style: italic;">never</span> have to say, "Sit down! Be quiet! Gözde don't steal Merve's book!" and things like that.<br /><br />Most of our lessons are four hours long. The best bit is the ten minute breaks every hour. Then the students head downstairs to the courtyard for a smoke and a cup of çay (Turkish tea). We are free to have a coffee in our staff room, or join them.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5070584191896098994"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/Rl5VdRmtmLI/AAAAAAAAByY/ThIgKzXYNVw/s400/Image000.jpg" /></a><br /><br />This is Cenk and Yiğit, a couple of lively young chaps from my morning class enjoying their break time.<br /><br />Now that the weather is getting hotter - and very humid - and very few of the classrooms are air-conditioned, we often take our classes outside under a tree or in the "Wendy House" in the courtyard.<br /><br />My Sunday afternoon class were discussing a documentary Cengiz had seen about English people dunking their biscuits into their tea. He was curious to know if it tasted good.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5070584191896098962"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/Rl5VdRmtmJI/AAAAAAAAByI/R4iYoaUMz-s/s400/biscuit%20class.jpg" /></a><br /><br />So we sent to the school canteen for some tea and biscuits, and we had a little lesson in English Culture.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5070584191896098946"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/Rl5VdRmtmII/AAAAAAAAByA/ZsnryY8iAEo/s400/bikkie%20dunk.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Now there's a class you don't get to teach in Australian primary school.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-41022398967786082422007-05-28T21:26:00.000+03:002007-06-01T10:07:49.626+03:00Erik - Turkish plumBack in Spring time we had a tree full of beautiful blossoms right outside our bedroom window ... and Ali told us he thought it might be a peach tree. We were looking forward to that!<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5069669084689173506"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlsVLBmtjAI/AAAAAAAABGo/AwjJeWpZRWQ/s400/100_9932.JPG" /></a><br /><br />Well, they're not peaches. Plums. Turkish plums. They look a bit like Greengage plums here, though, don't they?<br /><br />Here, let me reach out and pick you a few.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5069889541065509922"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlvdrRmtjCI/AAAAAAAABHQ/Yw3Dh5yxA6o/s288/erik%20in%20glass%20May%2028%20%2007%20small.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Yeah, they are really tiny.<br /><br />And tart? Oh, yes! You don't fill your mouth with these - and they do have a hard little stone inside just like normal plums.<br /><br />But people love them. The students have removed all the plums off the lower branches, as high as they can reach. And you can buy them by the kilo in fruit shops. And some restaurants serve them as a treat at the end of the meal.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-55451764588220032992007-05-28T21:16:00.000+03:002007-06-10T14:55:45.811+03:00Charlotte's TurnAnother Birthday. Another chocolate cake.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5069669084689173490"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlsVLBmti_I/AAAAAAAABGg/buh2R58Il8c/s400/100_9928.JPG" /></a><br /><br />Yeah its a bit mean taking a photo of someone blowing out their candles - but it's always been traditional in our family, and Charlotte is almost our daughter.<br /><br />Charlotte is a Beşiktaş fan - one of the local football teams (not actually the winning team). So we got her a 2 000 piece jigsaw puzzle with a picture of the stadium ... a few happy hours.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Turkey/photo#5069669084689173474"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlsVLBmti-I/AAAAAAAABGY/6hXb4kHyR5k/s288/100_9926.JPG" /></a><br /><br />She's looking forward to going home to the UK soon, though.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-49254611376996633842007-05-22T08:06:00.000+03:002007-05-22T08:40:18.379+03:00Wow! Capadocia - Wow!Saturday was a public holiday. On Tuesday we discovered we could rearrange a coupla lessons and open a window of opportunity ... so on Wednesday afternoon we shot down to Capadocia (Kapadokya) for three days.<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">It was a documentary on Kapadokya that sparked my interest in Turkey years ago, before we started any of this ESL caper.</span><br /><br />We stayed at <span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Göreme House</span> in Göreme village, in one of their cave suites.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066716565256112882"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCX3xmtivI/AAAAAAAAA-w/1jGusQGhM6c/s400/goreme%20house.jpg" /></a><br /><br />On Thursday morning we got up and went on a full-day tour of the whole area, and we saw the <span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >underground city</span> of Kaymakli and other landmarks.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066714482196974050"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCV-hmtieI/AAAAAAAAA8o/HG19eYlvvqw/s400/underground.JPG" /></a><br /><br />On Thursday evening we went to see a performance by the <span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Whirling Dervishes</span>.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066713150757112130"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCUxBmtiUI/AAAAAAAAA7Y/YN_RdAymkAE/s400/wd2.JPG" /></a><br /><br />On Friday we hiked all over Göreme and walked through <span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Love Valley</span>.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066715512989125234"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCW6hmtinI/AAAAAAAAA9w/zYltLL5oKvc/s400/love%20valley%202.JPG" /></a><br /><br />And then on Saturday morning we got up early (4 am) and went hot air <span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >ballooning</span>. That was <span style="font-style: italic;">the</span> most incredible experience!<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066704182865397874"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCMnBmtiHI/AAAAAAAAA5w/PXPdWutZURc/s400/025%20Ruth%20portrait%20in%20balloon%20Kapadokya%20May%2007.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:180%;" >1. Göreme and Göreme House<br /><br /></span>Many people in Göreme live in cave homes, although we were told it is illegal to just live in a cave as such, you can only do so if you have a house attached. So many of the hotels offer cave rooms. We stayed in one of the two cave suites at Göreme House:<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066717733487217538"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCY7xmti4I/AAAAAAAAA_4/1O040XW2K5E/s144/kapadokya%20suite%20rms.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066717733487217522"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCY7xmti3I/AAAAAAAAA_w/WZLE4rv0ws0/s144/kapadokya%20suite.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066717179436436322"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCYbhmti2I/AAAAAAAAA_o/h9ogR2apuc4/s144/kapadokya%20broom.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Sitting room - bedroom.<br />Bathroom with a spa - such a great help after climbing through tunnels, and up and down hills and valleys. Also here the view through our tiny bedroom window looking out the back of the "fairy chimney" rock structure that the hotel is built into.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066716565256112914"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCX3xmtixI/AAAAAAAAA_A/wRctKCkkb5U/s144/kapadokya%20bathroom.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066717179436436306"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCYbhmti1I/AAAAAAAAA_g/kXSDpicWFrI/s144/kapadokya%20brmwindow.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">(If the pictures are too small to see you can 'click' on them to see the larger version.)</span><br /><br />Göreme House offers "all day breakfast", though we found this does not mean you can have "second breakfast" later in the day! Breakfast was a special moment in the day because they try to keep it very Turkish - unlike some hotels who try to pander to foreigners' normal diet.<br /><br />The breakfast room is a bright pleasant place on the top floor of the hotel.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066717733487217554"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCY7xmti5I/AAAAAAAABAA/p27PtEUpJcU/s400/p%20r%20bfast.jpg" /></a><br /><br />This was not a buffet-style breakfast, here is Ahmet about to prepare our breakfast plates.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066717175141468994"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCYbRmti0I/AAAAAAAAA_Y/HEHccEju8wg/s288/kapadokya%20breakfast.jpg" /></a><br /><br />On the first morning we were tickled pink to be served rich dark chocolate cake along with the cheese, butter, tomatoes and cucumber around the edge of our plate.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066716019795266242"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCXYBmtisI/AAAAAAAAA-Y/Y0Tg6oO-YNE/s288/breakfast.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The space in the centre is for something cooked, like these rolled cheesy things we had the next day.<br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCXYBmtipI/AAAAAAAAA-A/VzkPulD5mfc/s288/bfast%20plate.jpg" /><br /><br />And this time there were little sausages instead of chocolate cake. Egg - cooked any way you choose - are served on a separate side plate, not on toast as we are used to.<br />And then, of course, there is the soft, fresh bread that comes with every meal.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066716019795266226"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCXYBmtirI/AAAAAAAAA-Q/zjF30Jt21r0/s288/bread.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066716019795266210"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCXYBmtiqI/AAAAAAAAA-I/pvDV4qcVuBU/s288/bfast%20spreads.jpg" /></a><br /><br />And an array of things to put on it. They make the most amazing jams and conserves in Turkey, the word "chunky" does not come close to describing them.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066714486491941410"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCV-xmtiiI/AAAAAAAAA9I/HnrlkXi1Dqk/s400/goreme%20dwellings.JPG" /></a><br /><br />There are a number of villages and towns in the Kapadokya region, but we felt that Göreme was particularly nice because it is not just a tourist centre but it is a regular country village with farmers and people going about their daily lives. We saw children heading off to school, a farmer ploughing his field with a horse-drawn plough, cows being led through the streets, and women toiling in the fields.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:180%;"><strong>2. Tour of Kapadokya Region</strong></span><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066713799297173970"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCVWxmtidI/AAAAAAAAA8g/-Xu4zVKRCmo/s400/snowy%20mountains%20Kapadokya%20May07.jpg" /></a><br /><br />On Thursday we joined a tour group of 18 people travelling around in a mini-bus. The whole day's tour, including lunch and entrance fees to several venues cost us only 50 lira - in stark contrast to the rest of our holiday!<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066714486491941362"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCV-xmtifI/AAAAAAAAA8w/QIgolLdh4QE/s400/view%20of%20Pigeon%20ValleyKapadokia%20May%2007.jpg" /></a><br /><br />We went to Kaymakli, the underground city where the Christians hid from their persecutors centuries ago. Apparently people would stay down there for up to three months at a time. I had difficulty staying calm down there for more than a few minutes. There were some wide open caverns - such as the chapel built (dug) in the shape of a cross at the seventh floor down - and the kitchen, and bedrooms with cosy little sleeping bays. But mostly it was tunnels barely shoulder-width and with a roof so low we had to bend double.<br /><br />Going down a stairway for several floors in a tunnel barely wide enough to fit through and having to bend over was a real test of my self-control.<br /><br />When we came to the stairway to the eighth floor down, our guide announce that the light-bulb down there was broken - but it would be okay because there was an air-shaft to the outside letting in some light ... as long as we could make it safely down the stairs. No problem, everyone pulled out their mobile phone and used the little glowing light.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066713795002206626"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCVWhmtiaI/AAAAAAAAA8I/2E0_02oLl8s/s400/little%20man.JPG" /></a><br /><br />Every time the tour bus stopped there were people trying to sell us souvenirs. I wanted to buy a hat anyway, and a new handbag because the catch was broken on mine. This little ( and I mean <span style="font-style: italic;">little</span>!) man came along and was bargaining with me about the bag. He was very keen to have his photo taken with me, so I handed my camera to his friend ... who proceeded to try to take the photo with the camera facing the wrong way, towards his own face. Eventually I got him to turn it around and press the right button.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066713150757112194"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCUxBmtiYI/AAAAAAAAA74/EKGDz0hAdik/s400/distant%20view%20of%20mountain%20of%20cave%20houses%20Kapadokya%20May%2007.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br />We travelled to a number of different sites, including these ancient cave homes in the hillside, and on the way our young guide entertained us with chat and information. He was telling us the story of King Midas (I can't actually remember why) - you know, the king who was able to turn everything to gold with his touch, but sadly not only could not eat but also managed to also turn his beloved daughter to gold. Our guide explained how in order to get rid of the curse, the gods required that Midas give up all his gold <span style="font-style: italic;">and</span> his trousers. This was a new twist on the story, and had all of us listening with puzzled frowns ... why his trousers?<br /><br />Do you know? Can you guess?<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066713799297173954"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCVWxmticI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/4VBtz8q3cJ4/s400/looking%20out.JPG" /></a><br /><br />We climbed the hill and wandered through some of those cave homes, and the cave cathedral.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066713795002206610"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCVWhmtiZI/AAAAAAAAA8A/ZmYPX19PSBI/s400/inside%20old%20cave%20houses%20Kapadokya%20may%2007.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:180%;" >3. The Whirling Dervishes</span><br /><br />Another couple who were on our tour and also staying in our hotel had made arrangements to see the Whirling Dervishes, and as we had never seen this wonder before we decided it was time to find out what they actually do ...<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066713150757112146"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCUxBmtiVI/AAAAAAAAA7g/EFJsZUPhrvU/s400/wd3.JPG" /></a><br /><br />The large audience sat in the dark in silence and eager anticipation, until the dervishes arrived in their tall tall hats and long black coats.<br /><br />Then there was a long <span style="font-style: italic;">a capella</span> song (in Arabic, I presume) by one of them, followed by a long breathy flute solo.<br /><br />And then the Arabesque music started in earnest, and they removed their black coats and they whirled. That's what they do. That's all they do. Not very fast, but as they twirl their full white skirts stick out and makes it look like they are going faster. Head tipped to the right, arms up with one palm turned up and one down, whirling anticlockwise.<br /><br />That's it. Now you know. Now you don't need to go and see them - unless you really want to.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:180%;" >4. Hiking Through Love Valley<br />and the Open Air Museum<br /></span><br />We climbed the hill behind Göreme, Peter wanted to get up to where someone had hung a huge Fenerbahçe flag (Fenerbahçe football team has just won the premiership here.)<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066715508694157874"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCW6RmtijI/AAAAAAAAA9Q/nG1blTfGyRA/s400/goreme%20hilltop.JPG" /></a><br /><br />On the other side of this hill is one of several "love valley"s - the name comes from the particular shape of the fairy chimneys in the valley.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066715508694157906"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCW6RmtilI/AAAAAAAAA9g/-TYc1mwIhSo/s288/love%20valley.JPG" /></a><br /><br />From there we went a little out of the village to see the "Open Air Museum".<br /><br />At the entrance to the museum there is a small market - of course - and a camel. We thought there would be lots of camel rides, camel treks to go on in Kapadokya region, but this was the only one we saw.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066714486491941378"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCV-xmtigI/AAAAAAAAA84/Mr0Pxsb2EaQ/s400/camel%20ride.JPG" /></a><br /><br />As we climbed further up the hill to the museum, the storm that had been following us all day - mumbling and grumbling with thunder and occasionally splattering us with a few drops - finally let rip.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066716019795266178"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCXYBmtioI/AAAAAAAAA94/9YzToWpurhQ/s288/rain.JPG" /></a><br /><br />So we didn't get to go into the museum - being an open air museum it's not a place to go in the rain. We did get a picture of it from the balloon the next day.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066715512989125218"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCW6hmtimI/AAAAAAAAA9o/xRox68CXVXY/s288/open%20air%20musem.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:180%;" >5. The Big Balloons</span><br /><br />On Saturday we got up at 4 am, and were picked up by minibus at 4.55am. We had decided to take the longer, more expensive balloon trip - especially when we were given a special offer for being residents in Turkey.<br /><br />Most of the balloons (there are seven companies operating in the district) take off from the same area. But our pilots, Lars and Kailie (who have been doing this in the area for 17 years), like to carefully choose a spot that will give them favourable winds so that they can take the ballons through interesting valleys.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066702378979133362"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCK-Bmth7I/AAAAAAAAA4Q/yz7NbZ5zNtw/s288/001%20balloon%20and%20basket%20on%20trailer%20before%20flight%20Kapadokya%20May%2007.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The baskets and other equipment are taken to the site on special trailers, two minibuses carry the passengers for the two rides.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066702378979133378"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCK-Bmth8I/AAAAAAAAA4Y/tpgM-zdcw6M/s288/002%20Kaili%20with%20ballon%20basketbefore%20flight%20May%2007.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Kailie explains how to get into the basket (lying down), and a couple of simple safety precautions should we have a rough landing ( in wind).<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066702378979133394"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCK-Bmth9I/AAAAAAAAA4g/DYJpfDXLOXo/s288/003%20cold%20air%20inflation%20balloon%20Kapadokya%20May%2007.jpg" /></a><br /><br />They use huge petrol engine fans to fill the balloon with cold air first.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066702378979133410"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCK-Bmth-I/AAAAAAAAA4o/UNYltlFIRe8/s288/004%20hot%20air%20inflation%20balloon%20Kaadokya%20May%2007.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Then they turn on the burners and start filling the balloon with hot air. At this point some of us climbed into the basket, lying on our backs.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066703525735401474"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCMAxmtiAI/AAAAAAAAA44/NeOdG09Gtn8/s288/006%20Lars%20operating%20burner%20take-off%20Kapadokya%20May%2007.jpg" /></a><br /><br />In no time at all the balloons were loaded - we were both in Lars' balloon - the ground crew gently let go of the ropes, and we lifted off. There was almost no sensation of movement.<br /><br />At this time of the morning, the sky is full of balloons.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066711866561890530"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCTmRmtiOI/AAAAAAAAA6o/dpwtFX_0U3c/s400/kapadokya%20balloons.jpg" /></a><br /><br />But Lars and Kailie take their balloons away from the main bunch and into Pigeon Valley and Love Valley.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066703525735401490"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCMAxmtiBI/AAAAAAAAA5A/pTRTvh9sJus/s400/008%20balloon%20in%20valley%20Kapadokya%202%20May07.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Our two balloons played hide-and-seek in and out of the valleys - sometimes going so low that we brushed the trees and when we were barely above the ground we saw several rabbits and a couple of foxes which were surprised by our silent arrival.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066704182865397858"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCMnBmtiGI/AAAAAAAAA5o/n0BwmcNYe3k/s400/023%20balloon%20descending%20in%20Goreme%20escarpment%20bg%20Kapadokya%20May%2007.jpg" /></a><br /><br />After an hour we could see the other balloons returning to earth, but we lifted higher, up to 7000 feet.<br /><br />I had expected to be quite cold up there - especially when I saw everyone else was rugged up with layers of jumpers and all I had was a thin cotton shirt and a denim jacket. But it was not in the least windy, because we moved gently with the wind - "we are the wind", explained Kailie. And the burner periodically warmed everyone in the basket, as well as lifting the balloon.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066711866561890482"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCTmRmtiLI/AAAAAAAAA6Q/GrxYlx5x7iM/s288/burner.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Finally we started looking for a suitable landing place - we didn't want to accidentally land on someone's crops. The crew on the ground had finished packing away the balloons from the shorter trips, and we could see them watching and following us. Lars was chatting with them on his mobile phone.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066711866561890514"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCTmRmtiNI/AAAAAAAAA6g/CqYZAeqO-QQ/s400/ground%20crew.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Our descent was slow and gentle. A rope was thrown over and the crew grabbed it and held on. To everyone's surprise, they managed to land Kailie's basket right on top of the trailer.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066704187160365202"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCMnRmtiJI/AAAAAAAAA6A/rP6PFWiFAa8/s400/031%20Peter%20in%20landing%20balloon%20Kapadokya%20May%2007.jpg" /></a><br /><br />We landed gently on the grass and a couple of passengers climbed out, which gave us enough lift for the crew to move us over to the trailer.<br /><br />Time for celebration - another successful trip. The crew grabbed handfuls of wildflowers and decorated the basket. They set up a little table and opened a couple of bottles of champagne.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ruth.wickham/Kapadokya/photo#5066711866561890498"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/ruth.wickham/RlCTmRmtiMI/AAAAAAAAA6Y/uytUf1thCmo/s400/celebration.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Red juice and champagne makes a drink they call "Cloud 9". A crowd of local people, including some excitable kids, joined us as shared in the juice and cake.<br /><br />Was it worth doing? Oh yes!<br /><br />Oh, and why did Midas have to give up his trousers??<br />The young man was confused between "trousers" and "treasures". (Midas had to give up his gold and treasures.)Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-81419165479281709922007-05-15T11:22:00.000+03:002007-05-15T11:31:35.227+03:00Water restrictionsSo the water finally came back on in the early hours of the morning. We had some spare 10 litre water bottles, so Peter quickly filled them as soon as we knew the water was running. It was not very clean water, but at least we could flush the toilet now.<br /><br />We were both staring at these big bottles of dirty water ... and suddenly we remembered. When we first moved into this apartment there were a few bottles of slightly dirty water stored in our spare (squat) toilet room. We had kept them for a while, in case they were something important, but eventually emptied them and threw the bottles away.<br /><br />And this was like deja vue.<br /><br />As soon as the water was running clear again we filled our bottles with clean water, and stashed them in the spare toilet room.<br /><br />That was Wednesday. On Saturday we woke up to ... no water again! Ah, but we were so glad we had saved some. They say it's going to be a long hot summer, and we have had an exceptionally dry winter.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-48770581136842468852007-05-08T20:44:00.000+03:002007-05-08T21:02:52.251+03:00Life Without WaterI keep trying to be positive - in China the electricity and water would frequently go off for a day at a time - and we still have electricity here, so it can't be that bad.<br /><br />I didn't have a class this morning, so I didn't hurry into the shower. When I turned the tap on about 9.30 there was only a trickle. At that time, had I known, I could have trickled some into a bucket.<br /><br />Now, at the end of the day, and beginning to feel slightly tacky - it's been a fairly warm day - I decided to check the internet for news ... and I found this:<br /><br /><h2>Water to be cut for 30 hours in Istanbul </h2><h5><i>Wednesday, April 11, 2007</i></h5> ISTANBUL – TDN with wire dispatches<br /><br /><p> <span style="font-family: arial;">Certain sections of </span><a id="KonaLink0" target="_new" class="kLink" style="text-decoration: underline ! important; position: static; font-family: arial;" href="http://www.turkishdailynews.com.tr/article.php?enewsid=70369&mailtofriend=1#"><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 153) ! important; font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-weight: 400; font-size: 12px; position: static;color:#336699;" ><span class="kLink" style="border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(51, 102, 153); color: rgb(51, 102, 153) ! important; font-weight: 400; font-size: 12px; position: static; padding-bottom: 1px; background-color: transparent;">Istanbul</span></span></a><span style="font-family: arial;"> will not receive water for 30 hours between </span><span style="font-weight: bold; font-family: arial;">Wednesday</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> 8 a.m. until Thursday 2 p.m. due to the repair and renewal operation on the Ömerli-Çamlıca pipeline and the Dudullu Drinking Water Facility.According to a statement released by the Istanbul </span><a id="KonaLink1" target="_new" class="kLink" style="text-decoration: underline ! important; position: static; font-family: arial;" href="http://www.turkishdailynews.com.tr/article.php?enewsid=70369&mailtofriend=1#"><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 153) ! important; font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-weight: 400; font-size: 12px; position: static;color:#336699;" ><span class="kLink" style="border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(51, 102, 153); color: rgb(51, 102, 153) ! important; font-weight: 400; font-size: 12px; position: static; padding-bottom: 1px; background-color: transparent;">Water </span><span class="kLink" style="border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(51, 102, 153); color: rgb(51, 102, 153) ! important; font-weight: 400; font-size: 12px; position: static; padding-bottom: 1px; background-color: transparent;">Works</span></span></a><span style="font-family: arial;"> (İSKİ), water will be cut in </span><span style="font-weight: bold; font-family: arial;">Bakırköy</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> (except Yeşilyurt and Yeşilköy), Zeytinburnu, Eminönü, Beyoğlu and Beşiktaş municipalities, coastal areas of Fatih and Sarıyer municipalities on the European side and Kadıköy, Üsküdar, Kavacık, Sarıgazi, military barracks around Çekmeköy, parts of Samandıra, Kozyatağı, Küçükbakkalköy, Ataşehir, Çekmeköy, İmes Industrial Zone, Yukarı Dudullu, parts of Ümraniye, Yukarı Çamlıca, Ferhatpaşa, Kayışdağı and its environs and the İçerenköy region of the Anatolian side of the city.</span></p><br />That's us, Bakırköy.<br /><br />Now, today is/was <span style="font-style: italic;">Tuesday</span> and we have been without water since this morning. And yet this news report is dated <span style="font-style: italic;">Wednesday</span> (tomorrow).<br /><br />So ... when will we have water again??? Have they started the work early so they can finish early? Or is the report just wrong/<br /><br />Or is there really going to be no water until Thursday afternoon?<br /><br />Can you imagine local governments in other countries doing this?<br />And how annoying is it that everyone must have known this was going to happen (eg our Turkish bosses, Dilko) but it didn't occur to them to tell us about it.<br /><br />There are several hairdressers right next to our building. A couple of weeks ago one of them installed a huge tank of water in an outside courtyard, and today there was a very noisy pump periodically taking water from it - so they knew.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-62669217793579106052007-05-05T21:16:00.000+03:002007-05-05T22:10:20.288+03:00Just BeykozThere's a good little tour you can do up the Bosphorus from the Golden Horn ... all the way to the Black Sea.<br /><br />Well, almost.<br /><br />For a mere twelve and a half lira, it's an hour and a half cruise up the Bosphorus, a few hours to wander around at Beykoz, and then then trip back.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzLlYWTKJI/AAAAAAAAAsQ/oOMsTl6FgAo/s1600-h/IMG_2834.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzLlYWTKJI/AAAAAAAAAsQ/oOMsTl6FgAo/s400/IMG_2834.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5061143924309174418" border="0" /></a>Lovely little fishing village, Beykoz.<br /><br />But then two or three times a day (in the busy season) the tour boat disgorges several hundred tourists, and the local restaurateurs swing into action competing to draw customers into their establishments.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzMoYWTKKI/AAAAAAAAAsY/tJvM233X6J8/s1600-h/IMG_2835.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzMoYWTKKI/AAAAAAAAAsY/tJvM233X6J8/s400/IMG_2835.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5061145075360409762" border="0" /></a>And then everyone heads on up the hill to see the castle and catch a glimpse of the Black Sea.<br /><br />This is a <span style="font-weight: bold;">naughty picture</span>. As we climbed we looked back towards the Bosphorus and Peter took a picture, but straight away a little man behind a fence started blowing a whistle.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzNVoWTKLI/AAAAAAAAAsg/t0lbZCO-8_Y/s1600-h/IMG_2838.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzNVoWTKLI/AAAAAAAAAsg/t0lbZCO-8_Y/s320/IMG_2838.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5061145852749490354" border="0" /></a>Obediently we turned away and headed up the hill. Peter lined up a shot of the castle we were approaching ... and again "peeep!" the little man was still watching from a distance.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzOAoWTKMI/AAAAAAAAAso/eOVlYy23Hxw/s1600-h/IMG_2839.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzOAoWTKMI/AAAAAAAAAso/eOVlYy23Hxw/s200/IMG_2839.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5061146591483865282" border="0" /></a>Well, it was a long, hot climb. We stayed on the road all the way - didn't notice the steep steps leading up through the restaurant, but I think we chose the better part.<br /><br />And there it was - the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Black Sea</span>! Not very black, but definitely sea. And all the ships heading out into it.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ihpMX571hOXBcRfWMvhOM1MKAn0ZMnu7NL5bGVHKD4nsC5NX2TZ1aWAUrbhnOjF6uaXG-wINz-qIMjmQAvYNFSwhjBDgXnv0M45YambXH4MxO2pScV2XhFjic2YBj7LFMqvlcR8ha5c/s1600-h/IMG_2848.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ihpMX571hOXBcRfWMvhOM1MKAn0ZMnu7NL5bGVHKD4nsC5NX2TZ1aWAUrbhnOjF6uaXG-wINz-qIMjmQAvYNFSwhjBDgXnv0M45YambXH4MxO2pScV2XhFjic2YBj7LFMqvlcR8ha5c/s400/IMG_2848.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5061147338808174802" border="0" /></a><br />We had a look around the castle fort at the top of the hill. It was old and crumbly, but a nice place to relax and great views.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzPtoWTKOI/AAAAAAAAAs4/N_diYAHp_SA/s1600-h/IMG_2849.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzPtoWTKOI/AAAAAAAAAs4/N_diYAHp_SA/s400/IMG_2849.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5061148464089606370" border="0" /></a><br />There was a little doorway in the wall that looked interesting and inviting, maybe a good exit ...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhon6a54jMtIJqucs47oifRfu0XPXNEyc2uXj-sG-ZZnjxsORFb8kOwDEJUhkBp81hS_D4vX7xToyL3dDtzetd5My0i1QVNQbr4rKZ4WtDxpRWSz21psqIFVymJ7nYNCAcH17eOqOQoKTM/s1600-h/IMG_2876.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhon6a54jMtIJqucs47oifRfu0XPXNEyc2uXj-sG-ZZnjxsORFb8kOwDEJUhkBp81hS_D4vX7xToyL3dDtzetd5My0i1QVNQbr4rKZ4WtDxpRWSz21psqIFVymJ7nYNCAcH17eOqOQoKTM/s320/IMG_2876.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5061152613028014338" border="0" /></a>Or not. Another forbidden area, of course.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzT3YWTKRI/AAAAAAAAAtQ/gZoUNW1zBy8/s1600-h/forbidden.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzT3YWTKRI/AAAAAAAAAtQ/gZoUNW1zBy8/s320/forbidden.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5061153029639842066" border="0" /></a>So we headed back down the hill to the boat. This time we saw the path through the restaurant, down the steps, and I was really glad we hadn't come up that way. The steps were obviously built by a very tall man, or just someone in a hurry who thought if you make the steps big enough you don't have to use so many.<br /><br />Back on the boat, we did another naughty thing.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzUqYWTKSI/AAAAAAAAAtY/Qg59i5pzKoI/s1600-h/bosphorus+trip+022.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjzUqYWTKSI/AAAAAAAAAtY/Qg59i5pzKoI/s400/bosphorus+trip+022.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5061153905813170466" border="0" /></a>The window of the boat wasn't madly clean. And from here you can't see the signs nor hear the Whistle Man ... but I know he would have been up there blowing ... The patch of road right in the middle was where we were trying to take photos.<br /><br />It was a relaxing day out. Beats teaching, and a lot of other humdrum things we could have been doing.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-7024979134055148202007-04-29T19:22:00.000+03:002007-04-29T19:23:24.476+03:00The Flood of 07<p>I did notice that the little piece of wire holding the washing machine hose in the bath had come loose, and I had the thought that I should do something about it - soon. But I got distracted, and forgot all about it.</p> <p>We were watching one of my favourite CSI programmes, and it had just got to the good part, but Peter suddenly had to go to the bathroom.</p> <p>When I heard him yell, I suddenly remembered about the hose.</p> <p>There is about a 1cm lip at the bathroom door, so naturally the whole bathroom was under water to that level. There is no floor drain in the bathroom. </p> <p>Escaping from the bathroom, the water had first headed into the second toilet, the old-fashioned 'squat' toilet in the next room. Because of the smell that emanates from this fixture, we had taken the trouble of blocking it up with the top of a large plastic water bottle fitted into it like a plug ... and we had been using the little room as a store.</p> <p>Having filled that room too, the water headed gleefully towards the <em>lower </em>end of the apartment. We had suspected that we were living in a leaning tower, and now we could see it for sure. I could almost hear it giggling as it slid down the hallway - a small tributary took off into the kitchen and straight under the fridge. As it chuckled it's way past the spare bedroom, another streamlet rushed in there to the far wall and under the spare mattress and chipboard bookshelf. </p> <p>And then it caught sight of the main bedroom and - with me rushing up behind with all our spare towels - made it's way as fast as it bubbly stream would allow it towards the far wall, the lowest end of the apartment. </p> <p>It <em>won't</em> happen again. The washing machine hose is securely strapped. </p>Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-27212047161956999852007-04-28T20:02:00.000+03:002007-06-10T14:57:01.743+03:00World Cup FinalSaturdays are hard work ... but at the end of the day we get to sit around and watch the cricket on TV. (On our big TV).<br /><br />Peter and Tony are in Oz heaven, of course.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjOAxIWTKHI/AAAAAAAAAsA/cWZWi3K4Qko/s1600-h/cricket+final+006.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjOAxIWTKHI/AAAAAAAAAsA/cWZWi3K4Qko/s400/cricket+final+006.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5058528388010158194" border="0" /></a><br />Stephanie is getting stuck into the salsa and chips, and she's learning all about cricket. She has learnt to signal fours and sixes.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjOAxYWTKII/AAAAAAAAAsI/zx4o42X0PBY/s1600-h/cricket+final+010.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjOAxYWTKII/AAAAAAAAAsI/zx4o42X0PBY/s400/cricket+final+010.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5058528392305125506" border="0" /></a><br />Tony and Shannon went out and bought pizza. Now we're all set for an evening of cricket.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-55694328057329518202007-04-26T15:07:00.000+02:002007-04-26T20:33:40.839+02:00Back to BazaaroThe Grand Bazaar is THE place to go to when you are in Istanbul - all of the guide books will tell you that.<br /><br />And it's not like any other market or bazaar you may have been to, ever. Nothing like the markets in China - outdoors, with rows of little stalls.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjCL3oWTJ9I/AAAAAAAAAqw/pAiQzm0llaQ/s1600-h/bazaar+passage+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjCL3oWTJ9I/AAAAAAAAAqw/pAiQzm0llaQ/s400/bazaar+passage+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5057696169377081298" border="0" /></a>Most of it is indoors, and it's like a maze. It's dazzling, and confusing, and a little overwhelming the first time.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjCMoIWTJ-I/AAAAAAAAAq4/QeyIukQ2ThQ/s1600-h/bazar+passage.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjCMoIWTJ-I/AAAAAAAAAq4/QeyIukQ2ThQ/s400/bazar+passage.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5057697002600736738" border="0" /></a><br />And even the second time. <p>Next to the main part of the (indoors) bazaar, there is an (outside) street with clothes stalls.</p><p><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjDsG4WTKBI/AAAAAAAAArQ/oSSjN0WVlKY/s1600-h/bazaar+clothes.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjDsG4WTKBI/AAAAAAAAArQ/oSSjN0WVlKY/s400/bazaar+clothes.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5057801984486352914" border="0" /></a><br />This is where we met "Sock Man" - he has a plastic display sheet with several pairs of socks in pockets ... he really wanted us to buy his socks, and so he kept jumping in front of us with his annoying little display. I never quite worked out whether there was only one sock man or umpteen - and if there was only one did he have a fixation with us in particular. (did every visitor to the bazaar have their own annoying little sock man, or was he just really fast on his feet?)</p> <div class="contentDisplay alignCenter" style="clear: both; float: left; width: 100%; position: relative;"><a href="http://livedigital.com/content/1608807/"><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjDsGYWTJ_I/AAAAAAAAArA/8Y0JGayje-4/s1600-h/bazaar+bowls.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjDsGYWTJ_I/AAAAAAAAArA/8Y0JGayje-4/s400/bazaar+bowls.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5057801975896418290" border="0" /></a><br /></div> <p>But inside there is an amazing variety of brilliant things for tourists to buy. The sellers all speak some English, and will accept your hard-earned cash in pretty well any currency you care to offer. </p> <p>Although when I visited the WC I had to pay half a (New Turkish) lira, and I saw one lady trying in vain to pay her way in with an English pound note. </p> <p>We bought a small piece of jewellery for me, and the seller agreed to a small "discount" on the basis that we live in Istanbul and may return to his stall another day. We remarked that there was no way we would be able to find it again. And he told us confidently that it was easy as he is situated opposite the one and only restaurant in the bazaar. </p> <p><strong>THE NEXT DAY WE CAME BACK AGAIN</strong> </p> <p>He was wrong, there are <em>several</em> restaurants. And we were lost in the maze. We went round and round and back and forth - and gradually some parts began to look a little bit familiar. The same salesmen kept jumping out at us with the same lines: "There you are!You are the customer I have been looking for all week!" and the like. </p> <p>We went down a side alley and found ourselves outside in one of the little courtyards that are embedded in the maze. </p><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjDsG4WTKCI/AAAAAAAAArY/co6NJffpong/s1600-h/bazaar+courtyard.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjDsG4WTKCI/AAAAAAAAArY/co6NJffpong/s400/bazaar+courtyard.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5057801984486352930" border="0" /></a><br /><div class="contentDisplay alignCenter" style="clear: both; float: left; width: 100%; position: relative;"><a href="http://livedigital.com/content/1608809/"><br /></a> </div> <p>We sat down for a cup of çay (Turkish tea in a tulip-shaped glass) and persuaded the restaurateur to find us a map of the maze. After that it was easy. Well, a little easier. </p> <p>I had been thinking about putting up some curtains in our bedroom, and noticing the material section of the bazaar on the map, we headed down there. </p><br /><div class="contentDisplay alignCenter" style="clear: both; float: left; width: 100%; position: relative;"><a href="http://livedigital.com/content/1608811/"><br /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjDudoWTKDI/AAAAAAAAArg/ANTBkVLg84E/s1600-h/bazaar+material.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjDudoWTKDI/AAAAAAAAArg/ANTBkVLg84E/s400/bazaar+material.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5057804574351632434" border="0" /></a><br /></div> <p>Some of these shoplets are deceptive. Once you enter that cave of fabric you discover more rooms and more shelves behind. We went into one of them, and were taken with a lot of typically Turkish rich velvet materials, all of them sparkly, and quite cheap.</p><br /><div class="contentDisplay alignCenter" style="clear: both; float: left; width: 100%; position: relative;"><a href="http://livedigital.com/content/1609199/"><br /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjDueIWTKFI/AAAAAAAAArw/QY3MrP6M1wY/s1600-h/sparkly+material.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjDueIWTKFI/AAAAAAAAArw/QY3MrP6M1wY/s400/sparkly+material.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5057804582941567058" border="0" /></a><br /></div> <p>We chose this one. Very velvet and very sparkly. We now hoave sparkly curtains in our bedroom.</p> <p>And sparkle everywhere. It just trickles off the curtains onto everything - especially when I was sewing them!</p> <p style="font-weight: bold;">The ubiquitous cats</p> <p>Istanbul is full of cats - but we haven't seen a single rat. The courtyard behind our apartment is full of them - yowling and arguing over the territory. </p><br /><div class="contentDisplay alignCenter" style="clear: both; float: left; width: 100%; position: relative;"><a href="http://livedigital.com/content/1609201/"><br /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjDsGoWTKAI/AAAAAAAAArI/rdmToTU7WBo/s1600-h/bazaar+cats.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RjDsGoWTKAI/AAAAAAAAArI/rdmToTU7WBo/s400/bazaar+cats.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5057801980191385602" border="0" /></a></div> <p>These bazaar cats seem quite happy to share.</p>Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-58923142059940517862007-04-19T21:15:00.000+02:002007-04-19T21:47:17.510+02:00Oh to be in Prague, now that Spring is here ...I didn't even know where Prague was - I only just found out that it's in the Czech Republic. I have seen jobs on offer there, but dismissed them lightly because for some reason I always imagined it to be a grey place full of grim-faced over-worked people.<br /><br />I was a bit wrong about that.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RiOvmecAxyI/AAAAAAAAAjo/pEaIngDcOn0/s1600-h/cathedral+view+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RiOvmecAxyI/AAAAAAAAAjo/pEaIngDcOn0/s320/cathedral+view+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5054076282380273442" border="0" /></a><br /><br />So, if anyone offers you the chance to visit Prague, grab it with both hands, and go there!<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">Cousin get-together<br /><br /></span>When I was a teenager in Devon, England, my three cousins would come and spend the summer with my family.<br /><br />And then my family moved to Australia.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RiOv6-cAxzI/AAAAAAAAAjw/KliC2qzhyAQ/s1600-h/max+young.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RiOv6-cAxzI/AAAAAAAAAjw/KliC2qzhyAQ/s200/max+young.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5054076634567591730" border="0" /></a> My cousin Max went to Spain, and then to Ireland.<br /><br />I last saw Max 37 years ago. So this month he was taking his son and some other young boys to Prague for a basketball tournament, so we decided to meet up there.Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3487337042724528234.post-10140833603912041522007-04-19T20:50:00.000+02:002007-04-19T21:49:30.627+02:00Getting there, and staying somewhereMax and the boys were booked into a cheapish hotel, some distance out of the city but with easy access to their sporting venue. As the main thing I wanted to see in Prague was Max, we asked him to get us booked into the same hotel.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Early morning hassles</span><br /><br />We had to get up early in the morning. We found a taxi driver asleep in his taxi in the main street of Bakırköy, and arrived at the airport in good time. There were hardly any check-in desks operating, and our flight was one of those combination ones: Czech Airlines and Turkish airlines together. We couldn't see a Czech counter, but there was a Turkish "<span style="font-style: italic;">Common Check-in</span>" ... with a queue a mile long. We joined the line, and shuffled our way up and then back and then up again in the lane. It took about 20 minutes to get to the counter.<br /><br />The girl looked at our papers: "Are you going to Prague?" she asked. We nodded and smiled eagerly. "You're at the wrong counter, you need the Czech counter ..." she told us.<br /><br />So we set off again. We tried asking one official-looking uniformed chap, but he backed away in fear when we said "Czech Airlines?" telling us he didn't speak English. By the time we found the right counter it was almost at the end of check-in time, and there was no queue at all. We zipped through, and then through the passport check to the departure gate. When we went on a domestic flight to Izmir, we had to go through three security checks, but here there was only the one.<br /><br />We are used to answering endless questions and filling in declaration forms going to and from Australia. But here it was so much easier.<br /><br />Flying over Czech Republic in the early morning, it was a beautiful sight. I hadn't realised it's so small. Only about 2 million people altogether, about a million in Prague itself. And the houses we looked down on mostly painted in pretty pastels with red pointy roofs with little windows in them ...<br /><br />This has never happened to us before. Because we were so late checking in, our bags were the first two to appear on the baggage carousel! So, grabbed our bags and walked on out into the Prague sunshine.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Looking for the yellow desk</span><br /><br />Max couldn't meet us, he had a basketball match to go to, but we had a piece of paper with the name of the hotel - Ceskamoravska - and some instructions to either catch a bus and a train from the airport, or to ask about a shuttle bus at a yellow shuttle bus desk ...<br /><br />Couldn't find any yellow desk. (We found out later there are two or three terminals, and we just weren't at the same one that Max arrived in.) There were a couple of white shuttle buses hanging around, and when we mentioned the name of our hotel they agreed to a price and we climbed aboard. Simple enough, ay?<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Finding the hotel.</span><br /><br />Ceskamoravska is the name of a station on the Metro, so the bus driver knew where he was heading, and set off confidently across town. And we also had a number by way of an address to describe exactly where in that district the hotel was. But when we got there, it was not nearly so simple.<br /><br />When we got to the right area he started driving around and around, unable to find the hotel. "Oh, look! There's an 'Auto Kelly's'", Peter said. Suddenly I remembered Max had said something about that in an email - "It's right behind Auto Kelly's". But even sitting there staring at Auto Kelly's, we couldn't see the hotel, and the driver was getting quite distressed.<br /><br />I went through the email print-out again: "Hotel Ceskamoravska - Inturprag".<br /><br /><br />Then I noticed a pink building - just there behind the orange business centre - with "Hotel Inturprag" written on it.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RiPDvecAx2I/AAAAAAAAAkI/PzLEe_BNILw/s1600-h/hotel.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RiPDvecAx2I/AAAAAAAAAkI/PzLEe_BNILw/s200/hotel.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5054098427231651682" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />No wonder we couldn't find it. It changed its name. Nowhere was the old name mentioned.<br /><br />Still can't see it? Okay, let's come around a little further.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RiPDRecAx1I/AAAAAAAAAkA/r2ZJONaOhHk/s1600-h/hotel+2.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VkFQaQA_F9Q/RiPDRecAx1I/AAAAAAAAAkA/r2ZJONaOhHk/s200/hotel+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5054097911835576146" border="0" /></a>Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08413223567586507894noreply@blogger.com0